The Future of Smart in America

if you've been following sales numbers over the past few years as we have, you'd be forgiven for thinking Smart's time in the U.S. is running short. The company is believed to have sold fewer than 4000 cars so far this year, though specific data is hard to find. Daimler, parent company of Smart and Mercedes-Benz, hasn't bothered to include year-to-date totals in its monthly sales reports, nor any data on 2010 performance relative to 2011. Why? Because Smart's sales continue to spiral downward by double digits every month. You'd think that would mean the end is nigh, but Smart's refusing to go down in the U.S. market without a drawn-out fight.

Speaking with executives at Mercedes-Benz USA, which has recently taken over control of Smart USA from original importer Penske, Motor Trend learned that the micro-car brand is far from finished in the U.S. With the full backing of the German mothership, Smart is planning to reinvent itself in America and return to profitability. But while there's a plan in place, it's a long road ahead.

The plan starts with marketing. Think about it. When was the last time you saw a Smart commercial on TV? Your memory isn't to blame -- there's never been one. According to Mercedes-Benz, Penske simply didn't have the resources at its disposal to mount the kind of massive media campaign needed to sell cars. Mercedes on the other hand does, which is why you'll start seeing a lot more Smart advertising in the near future, beginning with a major ad campaign that started in mid-September. TV commercials will appear on all the major networks during a number of popular scripted, reality, and talk shows.

The point of the ad campaign, we're told, is not to re-educate the market about Smart cars, but rather to expose people to them. Brand awareness, Mercedes says, is very low right now, and dealers say they haven't seen any advertising in three years. According to Mercedes, most car buyers don't know what Smart is, and those who do don't necessarily have the right idea about the brand. Judging by the comments on our last Smart Fortwo test, Motor Trend readers think the car only sells in San Francisco, but Mercedes tells us that many Smarts are actually sold in Texas, of all places. Smart is hoping to send a message of value and downsizing as the buying public begins to embrace small cars and restrained spending.

Another aspect of the plan comes on the dealer side of things. Mercedes cut loose 30 percent of Smart's dealer network when it took over the brand, dropping all dealers that weren't also Mercedes dealers. As of now, Smart is down to just 50 U.S. dealers, though that number will go back up to anywhere between 80 and 100 dealers in the near future, and all of them will also be Mercedes dealers. The idea is similar to Hyundai's plan for Genesis to have a dealer-within-a-dealer selling Smart cars as their own brand, not as tiny Benzes. They won't just be sold, either. Now that Mercedes is calling the shots, Smart will begin leasing gasoline cars for the first time. Meanwhile, the company is looking for ways to bring down the lease price on the Smart ED electric car from the current $600 per month rate.

Mercedes is hoping that this plan will get Smart back to sales growth in 2012, though given 2011's low sales, it's not a lofty goal. Next year will also see the launch of the third-generation Fortwo as a 2013 model based on the Forvision concept that just debuted in Frankfurt. The update as we understand it will be mostly cosmetic, but third-generation electric models will feature increased range and performance and, if all goes to plan, will actually be for sale and not just for lease. Dealers will have to make do with that for another three years or so until an all-new car debuts. That product, we hope, will feature some big updates, as we've found the current car lacking in a few areas, though Mercedes insists that the opinions of automotive journalists don't reflect those of customers, who apparently aren't complaining at all about the transmission.

Mercedes-Benz is working closely with its Smart dealers to craft a new awareness for the brand, one it hopes will get sales back on track. How well it works will depend on how effective the message is as much as gas prices and the country's economic woes. Beyond the short-term, though, Smart's future in America is still unclear and will depend heavily on future product we haven't seen yet.

Gas Mileage

Driving Smart Can Mean Significant Savings At The Gas Pump

Driving smart can mean significant savings at the gas pump and we all want to save money on gas right now, don't we. Find the 10 most common mistakes drivers make that can affect fuel economy.

(NAPSI)—As gas prices continue to fluctuate, it’s always a good time to evaluate your driving habits and take steps to keep yourself and your car on the road to savings at the pump.

To demonstrate the 10 common mistakes that drivers make to affect fuel economy, General Motors conducted a driving test. Two of their fuel economy engineers, Ann Wenzlick and Beth Nunning, drove identical Chevrolet Cruze LTs on a typical workday commute. They each drove 20 minutes with city and highway driving, including a stop for coffee.

Wenzlick averaged 37 miles per gallon using efficient driving habits and by maintaining her car and Nunning averaged 21 miles per gallon. On average, that was a $100 price difference at the pump. Here are some of their tips based on what they learned:

• Get out of the drive-through lane. Idling for 15 minutes burns through about a quarter of a gallon of gas. Parking your car and going into the store to get what you want can actually help to save money on gas.

• Take it easy. Jumping on the gas at every light, only to hit the brakes, isn’t going to get you home any faster. However, driving smoothly can improve your mileage by 20 percent.

• Drive 70, not 80. It may not sound like much, but it’s likely a 10-mph difference can save you up to four miles per gallon when driving on the highway.

• Use cruise control. It turns out that maintaining a constant speed over time is much more efficient than speeding up and slowing down over and over again.

• Roll up the windows. At slower speeds, turning off the air-conditioning can save you a little, but on the highway, it’s better to roll up the windows. If the windows are down, the increased air pressure can slow the car and consume more energy than air-conditioning will.

• Get rid of that extra stuff in the trunk of your car. Every 100 pounds of weight you carry in the car can reduce fuel economy by 2 percent.

• Don’t ignore the “check engine” light. Serious engine problems can cut your fuel economy by up to 40 percent.

• Try to bundle your errands. Plan ahead. An engine at operating temperature can be up to 50 percent more efficient than a cold engine. So, when possible, it’s much better to run five errands in an afternoon than running one errand every day of the week.

• Make your tires last. Properly inflated tires will improve your fuel economy and they will last longer. Also, rotate tires at manufacturer-recommended intervals.

• Use the grade of motor oil recommended for your vehicle; the same goes for the octane level of gasoline. Motor oil that says “Energy Conserving” on the performance symbol of the American Petroleum Institute contains friction-reducing additives that can improve fuel economy.

For most cars, the recommended gasoline is regular octane. In most cases, using a higher-than-recommended-octane gas offers no benefit-and costs more.

• Ditch the roof ornaments. At highway speeds, up to a third of your fuel is used to overcome wind resistance, so even small changes to your vehicle’s aerodynamics can have a big impact in fuel economy.

• It pays to be prudent. According to Roger Clark, manager of the GM Energy Center, “With a well-maintained car, the best drivers get up to 25 percent more miles per gallon than average. When you combine a poorly maintained car with inefficient driving habits, the fuel economy of the worst drivers can be 50 percent below average.”

Clark added, “The fuel economy of every vehicle is greatly affected by how you drive and how you care for your vehicle. Often, relatively small changes to your driving habits and vehicle maintenance can make the difference between being on the bottom or the top of the fuel-economy scale.”

Neverending Saab Story

Youngman Lotus Refuses to Go Away

Official news of Saab's inevitable bankruptcy liquidation last December 19 broke too late for "Trend's" last deadline. After covering it at motortrend.com, we figured Saab's death would be nothing more than a brief "We Hear" item.

"The receivers in Sweden have been talking to several groups," says Tim Colbeck, chief of Saab's post-GM North American marketing, a separate company from the automaker. Colbeck hoped one of the mystery groups would take over all of Saab, but says it's no clearer to him than to us. A parts company will likely rise from the ashes of Saab Cars USA, but warranty coverage for post-GM Saabs "is to be determined," Colbeck says. Former owner General Motors scuttled Youngman's attempt to buy Saab while it was still viable, by objecting to potential threats to GM's intellectual property. When Victor Muller's Spyker bought Saab from GM, the contract stipulated Spyker could not share GM platforms with another automaker. GM built just a couple hundred 9-4x crossover/utility vehicles for Saab in the Mexican plant that builds the Cadillac SRX.

So it was easy for GM to stop delivering the CUV to the Swedish brand. Saab built the GM Epsilon II-based 9-5 in Trollhättan for nearly a year. That’s the platform GM wants to keep from other manufacturers, especially in China, where SAIC builds Epsi II-based Buick LaCrosses in a joint-venture factory. So, Youngman Lotus swoops in and has an international brand to place on a relatively sophisticated sporty four-door hatchback, right?

Not so fast: The Chinese government still must approve the deal. As we’ve reported before, China is much more interested these days in reducing, not expanding, the number of automakers in the country. The only thing of which we can be sure is the Saab story simply will not go away.

Tire Basics

Getting a grip on tire fundamentals

It's partway through the race. The leader is slowly losing his advantage, as the other cars gain, when from out of nowhere, the 36th-place car-some six laps down-runs down that dominant car and passes him on the outside like he was standing still. How? Tires. That backmarker has just come out of the pits with fresh rubber. The leader's tires are 60 laps old. New rubber can make a dramatic difference in a vehicle's performance, as evidenced on the race track, where the new tires can turn a zero into a hero.

The same holds true on the street, where the right tires can bring an older car back to life, tighten up a sloppy riding and handling SUV, quell apprehension on a wet, curvy backroad, and silently perform years of faithful service. The wrong tires, on the other hand, can make you think the shocks and bushings have failed, the alignment is out of spec, the steering is demon-possessed, a band of screaming bobcats have taken up residence in the wheelwells, and the water on the road is a foot deep. There's much more to tires than the meets the eye.

Designing circles

Tires are the single most important component on a vehicle, one that seemingly requires an advanced engineering degree to fully understand. And yet, despite advanced computer simulations, designing and developing a tire remains as much art as science and involves as much compromise as an international peace accord. With a tire, improvement in one performance characteristic almost always comes at the expense of another. For example: Reducing rolling resistance (for better fuel mileage) or increasing tread life usually decreases grip, wet or dry. The opposite is true too: A race car wearing race tires can corner at 1.5g without aero aids, but gas mileage is of almost no concern and the rubber is worn out within 150 miles.

Sometimes, the interactions don't work the way tire designers' computers predict. This is due partially to the tire literally being cooked (or "cured") in the manufacturing process: Polymers, sulphur, carbon black, oils, waxes, resin, and structural components evolve and develop new properties. Some of this evolution continues over the tire's life, especially if the tire is overheated.

With the latest tire production methods, which lay individual cables of material rather than sheets of fabric or steel, there are more individual components in a tire than in a car engine. An engine can be torn down to measure and test every component for design and material compliance. Once reassembled, it's as good as new. Disassemble a tire, and even experts have a devil of a time accurately measuring the basic components, much less figuring out which compounds evolved into what. (Imagine cutting apart a cake in an effort to determine whether free-range or coop-raised eggs were used.)

"Born on" dating

Among the factors that influence tire performance is how recently the tire was crafted. Just like Budweiser beer, tires bear a "born on" date. Imprinted on one or both sidewalls is an alphanumeric code of a dozen or so letters and numbers that begins with "DOT." Tires produced starting in 2000 have a four-digit birthdate code at the end of the DOT number. The first two numbers indicate the week, and the last two the year. So, for example, a DOT number ending in 0205 means the tire was produced the second week of January 2005.

This date is important because rubber deteriorates with age. A tire that's been in service for five or six years should be replaced regardless of tread depth. Cut a year or two off that for vehicles that are not garaged during the day or are run in areas of high ground-level ozone.

Is "plus sizing" a plus?

Not long ago, 17-inch-diameter wheels were limited to upper-end sports cars, while 20-inchers were strictly for lunatic-fringe tuners. Now, many minivans come standard on 17s, and 20-inch "dubs" are original equipment on pickups. If you're buying a new car, should you go for the optional 19s? If your considering an "upgrade" to your current vehicle, should you go to 20s, 24s or 26s?

Here's the short answer: If show is more important than go and the roads in your region are so smooth you think a pothole is something that causes pasta sauce to leak onto the stove, then, sure, go for the bigger size. Just be sure to keep the OE wheels for when you want to sell the car because those certain-to-no-longer-be-trendy versions will be lucky to bring 50 cents a pound at the aluminum recycler.

The long answer is that there's no performance advantage or even steering-feel improvement to be gained by increasing wheel diameter beyond about 17 or 18 inches for most cars. When asked what diameter Formula One wheels would go to if the current 13-inch mandate were removed, the head of Michelin's F1 program predicted 17 to 19 inches, adding "certainly not 20 or beyond."

If you were to select larger-diameter aftermarket wheels that weigh more than stock or have a different offset than the stock units, or if the new tires are of a significantly different diameter or lower load rating, the vehicle's handling, ride, emergency capability, and safety could be severely impacted. Auto manufacturers spend millions of dollars on their vehicles' suspension engineering and chassis tuning, including factory tire fitment. Any change you make after you buy a vehicle means a trade-off must be made. The more dramatic the change, the more severe the compromise. The best general guidance regarding plus-sizing is to look to the automaker's own offerings. If a car is available with 18s, then rest assured, the suspension and braking is engineered to work effectively with this heavier setup.

How long can they go?

The greatest factor in tire longevity is the roads on which you drive. Tire companies have mapped out average tread life by county and discovered that tread life is inversely proportional to local elevation. It's great in the flatlands of west Tennessee and eastern Colorado, but poor in the Smokies and Rockies. It's also better for those who do most of their driving on roads with long straights and gentle curves. And it's worse the farther south you go, due to the heat.

The next factor is how you drive. If the plush toys and ball caps on your rear package shelf remain motionless under all driving conditions, you might get the claimed 70,000 miles from your tires. If you know on which interstate transition ramps it's possible to more than double the recommended speed, and you measure 60-foot times leaving stoplights, the same tires might not last 30,000 miles.

Next is the type of tires you have. Ultra-high-performance tires rarely last more than 25,000 miles, even if the ball caps never budge. Ultimately, maintenance is the key to getting the most mileage and performance from your tires. Each month make sure pressures are at least what the vehicle manufacturer recommends, rotate positions every 3,000 miles, diligently check for signs of uneven wear, and correct any vehicle problems that can cause poor wear.

As we've illustrated, tires are much more sophisticated than they appear. These black doughnuts are the only parts of the car that make contact with the ground, and they're relied upon to keep the expensive automobile and invaluable occupants safe. Whether you're buying a new vehicle or replacing old tires, it pays to have a solid understanding of this essential automotive component.

Reading sidewalls

A tire's sidewall is packed with information. Each manufacturer's Web site has a detailed key translating the figures, but this quick primer will help you decipher the information. Look for an alphanumeric combination such as "P245/40R17 91Y." The "P" indicates the tire was designed to meet North American passenger-car standards. If it were "LT," the tire was designed for light trucks. A lack of a preceding letter means a tire designed for European standards. The "245" is the nominal section width (not exactly the same as tread width but close) in millimeters. The "40" is the aspect ratio: The sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the tread width. In this case, 40 percent of 245 mm, or 98 mm. "R" indicates a traditional radial tire design. "17" is the wheel diameter in inches. "91" is the load index-a larger number means the tire, if inflated properly, can carry more weight, in this case 1,356 pounds. "Y" is the speed rating, meaning this tire is capable of sustained speeds of 186 mph. Other common speed ratings are S = 112; T = 118; H = 130; V = 149; W = 168; Z greater than 149.

Tire manufacturers have a size "window" in which to fit a nominal dimension. While all of Maker A's 245/40R17s will be identical, they may be ever-so-slightly wider, narrower, shorter, or taller than Maker B's 245/40R17s. A tire focused on performance will likely be in the wide and tall corner of the window, while one that prioritizes low cost will likely be in the narrow and short corner. Since the size windows overlap, some makers use one size mold to produce a pair of dimensions. "M+S" means the tire meets the standards for an all-season tire. This does not imply the tire performance rivals a dedicated snow tire, just that it's better in snow than one without the M+S designation.

Widely misunderstood, "Max Load/Max Pressure" is not the pressure at which the tire will burst. Instead, increasing pressure beyond this point results in no additional load-carrying capacity beyond that stated.

Uniform Tire Quality Grade is shown as numbers or letters after the words "treadwear," "traction," and "temperature," this is the tire manufacturer's self-assessment of how this tire compares to its other offerings. The treadwear number, determined by field testing on a government-specified course, is a percentage of a control tire graded at 100 points. Thus, a tire marked "200" means it lasts twice as long one graded "100." The traction rating comes from a straight-line wet (more like damp) grip test (not really stopping distance, as its performed on a traction trailer). "AA" is best. And temperature indicates the tire's resistance to heat generated by running at high speed. "A" is best. So many high-quality tires get "AA" and "A" in the last two categories, that they are of relatively little use, except to convince you not to buy cheap tires.

The right tire for you

Selecting the right tire is a daunting task, surpassing even that of a novice snow skier from the flatlands choosing downhill skis: In the ski store, he finds row after row of seemingly identical skis, labeled with, to him, meaningless features and benefits. At least with skis, however, you can pick your favorite color. To choose the right tire for your needs, start with understanding what performance category you have now and then decide where you want to end up.

Passenger: Round and black. They hold air, last a long time, provide a comfortable ride, and don't cost too much. A step up from this is sometimes called "traditional luxury."

Touring: While comfort and long-life are top priorities in this category, precise steering feel and a more controlled ride are important as well.

Grand touring: Sometimes called "performance luxury," these tires offer sportier steering feel, tauter ride, and enhanced grip.

High-performance: Grip, both wet and dry, and crisp steering feel are at least as important as tread life and comfort.

Ultra-high-performance: Grip is king, and precise steering feel is queen. Tread life and ride comfort take a back seat. Some separate out the stickiest street tires into a "max performance" category.

If you like the way your car currently feels, stay with the same tire category or, ideally, the same tire. If you'd like to enhance performance, consider stepping up a category or two. Automakers typically fit their vehicles with specially formulated tires designed to work with the handling, noise, fuel-economy, and bottom-line pricing goals set forth by their engineering teams. If your priorities differ, such as favoring more performance over saving a few bucks, then aftermarket tires can make a big difference in your driving experience.

Paint-Care Products

What's the difference between a wax, polish, and glaze? Is a paint cleaner the same as a carwash solution?

What's the difference between a wax, polish, and glaze? Is a paint cleaner the same as a carwash solution? When should you use a polish and when a polishing compound? It's confusing out there on the shelves of the local auto parts store and no wonder car owners have a hard time figuring out which products are best for maintaining their vehicle's finish. Even the finish-care industry can't decide what to call its products. Some formulas have the same name but do different jobs. Others are designed for basically the same purpose, but are called by different names. What's a concerned buyer to do?

In many cases, there's no way to know what a paint-care product does just by its name. Some manufacturers, for instance, use the terms "wax" and "polish" virtually interchangeably. Yet, other companies--as well as professional detailers--draw a clear distinction between the two, each having its own specified job and application. To further complicate things, a wax is often labeled as such, even when there's no wax in the product at all. Throw in more terms like "glaze," "swirl remover," and "protectant," and the fact that some products combine the benefits of different formulas, and you can really get heads spinning. Do you buy one of each or do you simply close your eyes and pick one, figuring they all do the same thing, anyway?

Finish-care professionals don't have the same quandary because they know individual products are designed for specific tasks, and using each product for what it's designed to do is the key to maintaining a showroom-like shine. In an effort to help you through the maze, we've tried to identify the major types of paint-care products and give you some insight into what they're designed for (whatever they're actually called).

Let's start with the easiest: a car wash. This is exactly what it says it is: a light-detergent solution formulated for washing surface dirt and grime off the paint. It also may be called a "shampoo," but the purpose is the same. The key here is that the product is prescribed specifically for use on a car; household detergents and cleaners can be too strong and could strip off the protective layer of wax and even stain the finish. For tough road grime, use a bug-and-tar remover, which is a heavier-duty product than the average car wash.

Although a paint cleaner sounds like it should be related to a car wash, it's actually at the opposite end of the spectrum. A cleaner (also called "precleaner" or "prewax cleaner") is an abrasive product designed to remove fine layers of paint in order to "clean" away dulling paint, oxidation, old wax, or stains and dirt that have worked their way into the paint. A cleaner will also smooth the surface, restoring shine and reflectivity, and, therefore, is a good place to start when restoring an old finish that's showing signs of dulling or oxidation. On the other hand, a cleaner usually isn't needed on a like-new, showroom-quality finish since the paint doesn't need any improvement, only protection.

Some companies offer different levels of abrasiveness--fine, medium, and heavy--to give you more control when tackling differing levels of deteriorated paint. If you choose this route, start with the lightest abrasive product you can to avoid removing more paint than necessary. If you find that this product isn't doing the job, then move to a heavier abrasive. Keep in mind, though, that a heavier abrasive leaves a coarser finish, so it should be followed by a fine-abrasive cleaner to provide a smoother surface. The use of a cleaner is generally followed by a polish, glaze, or swirl remover, and then a layer of wax for protection.

A rubbing or polishing compound, meanwhile, is a similarly abrasive product used for basically the same purpose as a cleaner. A rubbing compound usually contains a heavier abrasive than a polishing compound.

The terms polish and glaze are often used interchangeably, and it's usually safe to think of them as the same product. A swirl remover also falls into the same general category. A polish is used to provide a fine improvement to an otherwise good-quality (or just-restored) finish for maximum reflectivity and that highly sought "wet-look," mirror-like appearance. Other benefits of using a polish is to hide light scratches, swirl marks, or spider-webbing. It's often the final "paint improvement" product to be applied before a protective wax, and on a well-maintained finish that suffers only from light scratching, a polish may be all the improvement that's needed.

Some polishes contain no abrasives and rely on filling in swirl marks and light scratches to make them "disappear." Others (like swirl removers) can use a light abrasive that takes off minute layers of paint to further smooth the surface. When done right, the result is a deep-gloss shine that adds particularly good depth to darker colored vehicles.

After any paint-improvement steps have been taken, a wax should be applied to the finish to provide a layer of protection against environmental deterioration. A true wax is solely a protective product; there are no abrasives for cleaning or polishing. While it adds a cosmetic shine to the paint, it doesn't improve the paint surface itself; therefore, a dull, low-reflective finish underneath a layer of wax will still be dull. Still, it's arguably the most important of all finish-care products because a good wax will resist the adverse effects of sunlight, acid rain, bugs, bird droppings, and the like, and help keep the paint from looking aged and lifeless. In fact, new vehicles fresh from the showroom (as well as others with well-maintained finishes) usually only need regular washing and the application of a wax on a regular basis to maintain that like-new look.

Despite being called waxes, not all these types of products actually use wax. Some are synthetic formulas that employ polymers or silicone resins to make them easy to spread and provide long durability. Even formulas that use natural wax still can be blended with synthetic elements for a desired effect. Carnauba, for instance, is the hardest wax known and is common in many protectant products. However, pure carnauba is actually too hard for automotive paint. It's necessary to blend it with other ingredients to create a manageable, effective formula.

While professional detailers tend to use these types of specialty products, each with its own distinct function, many products marketed to the do-it-yourselfer combine a cleaner or polish with a wax to create a simpler "one-step" formula. Since these generally use a light abrasive to help smooth the paint and restore shine, they aren't really suited for bringing back aged, dull-looking finishes. At the other extreme, they can be overkill for a finish that's already in immaculate condition and simply needs good wax protection. For average finishes, though, that are showing slight loss of reflectivity and need a light sprucing up, a one-step product can work fine and reduces the "elbow grease" factor.

Finally, another class of paint-care products is the instant detailer, or spray-and-wipe formulas. These vary somewhat in formulation, but all have basically the same purpose: to remove light dust and provide a quick shine without having to do a full wash or wax. Some are touted as waterless washes or simply as shine enhancers, neither of which contain wax and so don't contribute to the paint's protection. Others, however, do contain a slight amount of wax that leaves a light protective layer on the surface. While this may be a good selling point, don't rely on it as your only wax protection; they're no long-term substitute for the real thing. Even products with wax generally fall into the "quick shine" category.

By the way, while any wax-type product--natural or synthetic--can be described as a generic protectant, the term "protectant" is often reserved for products designed to be used on vinyl, rubber, and the like, not paint.

Even knowing all this, it's hard to tell the products without a scorecard. When in doubt, read the description on the label. Then categorize it in your own mind, using the terms listed above. If a wax product, for example, claims to remove oxidation, it's actually a combination cleaner/wax that uses a light abrasive, plus leaves a protectant layer on the paint. If a polish is described as leaving a protective layer with no mention of filling in swirl marks or light scratches, it's actually a "wax."

Also be aware of the level of abrasive in a product. One boasting that it'll remove old paint has a higher abrasive level and shouldn't be used on a like-new finish. On the other hand, be wary of a product that overpromises, such as a wax that claims to make even old finishes look new again. Sure, it will leave a wax-like gloss over the old paint, but without any cleaning action, it won't improve the paint's reflectivity or provide a mirror-like luster. It's a jungle out there on the auto parts shelves, but with a little insight and careful label reading, you can cut through the confusion and choose just the right product for your finish.

Are your tires ready for winter?

We'll keep this simple. If you live in the snowbelt and you're running all-season tires year 'round, you're probably sacrificing a noticeable level of vehicle control and performance when driving on snow and ice. Yes, it's become fashionable in the U.S. to rely on all-season tires in, well, all seasons. When winter rears its ugly head, though, even the best all-season designs won't be able to match a quality winter tire on snow and ice.

Blizzak M2-02

The reason is also simple. All-season tires are a compromise: You don't expect them to deliver the same cornering potential on pavement as dedicated performance tires, and likewise, they can't match the slippery-road traction of today's winter tires. "The difference between an all-season tire and a snow tire," notes Matt Edmonds, director of marketing for The Tire Rack, "is the same as between an all-season tire and a performance tire. It's that much better."

More Europeans seem to have gotten the message. According to statistics provided by Goodyear, for instance, about 80 percent of drivers in Scandinavia switched to dedicated winter tires during the "dark months." About half of Austrian and Swiss drivers and nearly one-third of German car owners also mount up winter tires when the weather turns cold.

In terms of sheer traction, studded tires still provide the best grip. Goodyear estimates that a metal-studded tire provides up to 40 percent greater traction on hard-packed snow and ice than all-season tires. However, they also have a definite downside, producing higher noise levels, decreased ride comfort, and reduced traction on both dry and wet (but non-freezing) road surfaces. Plus, they're well known for chewing up asphalt, leading many regional governments to ban their use.

By contrast, a modern studless snow tire can provide up to 20 percent better snow traction than an all-season design, without the significant disadvantages of studs. We've verified this from behind the steering wheel. A well designed winter tire provides a tangible seat-of-the-pants performance advantage over all-season tires in both snow and ice conditions. This includes better initial hookup, shorter braking distances, and cornering that's both more predictable and controllable. This is important, since again according to Goodyear, "The largest group of [winter] accidents results from loss of lateral control of the car on ice and snow."

Michelin Arctic Alpin

The key word in snow traction is "bite." The more edges, the better. What you generally get in a good winter tire is an aggressive tread design, deep grooves, sharp corners and edges for digging into snow and gripping ice, and plenty of sipes (the small slits within individual tread blocks). Sipes provide two advantages, they help keep the tread blocks flexible in freezing conditions and provide additional small, but helpful edges.

In the past year, the Rubber Manufacturers Association instituted stricter requirements for tires designated for severe winter conditions. Only tires that meet these requirements can display the letters M and S in some configuration, plus a pictograph of a mountain with a snowflake. If unsure about whether a tire model is rated for severe snow conditions, look for this symbol.

There are plenty of good snow tires on the market. In fact, tire manufacturers often produce a variety of designs to fit different types of vehicles and driving conditions. Dunlop, for instance, produces the SP Winter Sport M2 for T- and H-rated high-performance vehicle fitments, the Graspic HS Q-rated performance radial, the SP Winter Studdable, and the Grandtrek SJ4 studless design for use on SUVs, light trucks, and vans. Pirelli, meanwhile, offers its Winter Ice and Winter Ice Plus models in both a conventional directional tread design, as well as a special asymmetrical pattern designed to use the inner tread area to optimize traction and braking and the outer area for cornering control and directional stability.

It was Bridgestone, however, that really launched the modern era of winter tires when, in 1993, it introduced its innovative Blizzak design with a unique multicell compound. This fall the next-generation Blizzak will hit the market in three new models. The direct replacement for the original Blizzak WS-15 is the WS-50, which has a new tread design and a new Tube Multicell compound claimed to offer better snow and ice traction. In addition, the two-layer tread now has conventional snow-tire compound under the multicell outer later, instead of the all-season compound previously used.

Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice

There are also now two ice-compound versions of the Blizzak. Called The IceGripper and designated MZ-01 and MZ-02, these use a slightly softer Link Multicell compound that provides better handling and braking on ice. The MZ-01 has a larger circumferential groove for better wet performance than the MZ-02. Bridgestone is also now offering the Winter Dueler, a snow tire using Blizzak technology that's targeted for light trucks and sport/utility vehicles.

Meanwhile, Goodyear's latest offering is its Ultra Grip Ice, which combines a directional tread with a special silica tread compound, called IceLoc, to provide up to a claimed 12-percent better ice traction than a conventional snow tire. Like the Blizzak, the Ultra Grip Ice uses a two-layer compound, with its IceLoc compound on the outside and a conventional snow-tire compound underneath. The Ultra Grip also employs a wider, flatter tread, and high-density sipes keep the tread face pliant in freezing temperatures, while helping evacuate the film of water just below the snow.

Michelin's Arctic Alpin brings a whole new concept to the market with over 1700 Torque-Locking Sipes. In contrast to conventional sipes, which descend into the tread block as a straight cut, Michelin's design has a zigzag pattern. This allows the thin blocks of rubber between the sipes to squeeze together and interlock with each other under load, providing more stability to the individual blocks and ribs. The result is that, even on clear roads, the tire still provides good handling and response. With the Arctic Alpin, the winter compounding extends throughout the depth of the tread.

Like the popular Blizzak, Yokohama's Guardex series also employs a micro-pore type compound, but one that runs throughout the tread, not only on the outer layer. In addition, it features nylon "mini-stud" fibers in the tread, which are designed to improve snow traction, wear, and dry-handling capabilities, as well as provide the extra bite of studs, but without the damage.

Yes, the winter tire market is heating up with a variety of good designs to help you get through the slippery stuff. But perhaps the most important thing is that you make the switch to a winter tire at all. The extra performance, control, and safety are waiting to be enjoyed.

10 Tips for Winter Driving
While we'd wager that 99.9 percent of our readership can't thread a cross-ice pass through traffic like Wayne Gretzky, we're not so sure about the Great One's credentials for winter driving (more so, say, than any other person growing up in the snowbelt). Still, Goodyear has teamed up with Gretzky to promote the performance advantages of winter tires in a new ad campaign. As part of this, Gretzky and J.O. Hunt, chief engineer for Goodyear tires, offer these 10 tips for winter driving.

1. Slow down. Wet, snowy, or icy roads offer less traction and make it harder to stop and turn.

2. Consider buying a set of winter tires. It's best to replace all four tires with winter tires because differences in tire size and wear can negatively affect a car's handling and stability. 

3. Beware of bridges: Because bridges and overpasses are exposed to cold air both above and below, ice can form on them even when the roads on either side are free from ice. 

4. If possible, carry a sack of sand or gravel in the trunk. On a rear-drive car, the added weight over the drive wheels will improve traction. And the sand or gravel can be used to help get you out if you become stuck. 

5. Avoid sudden inputs on the steering wheel, brakes, or accelerator. Make gradual movements to avoid upsetting the balance of the car 

6. The buildup of ice and mud on wheels and underneath your car can cause your wheels to become unbalanced, which can upset the ride and lead to unnecessary wear of your tires and suspension parts. Wash off any mud or ice as soon as possible. 

7. If you're planning a long winter trip, pack extra blankets, water, food, and a few chemical-heating packs in case you get stranded. If you do get stuck, stay with your vehicle until help arrives. 

8. Have your cooling system fully checked out, including coolant, hoses, belts, and water pump. 

9. Maintain your tires at proper inflation to maximize their contact with the road. Pressure that's too high or low can cause unnecessary tire wear and reduce the size of the contact patch, making it less safe. 

10. In snowy conditions, make sure your car's air intake is free from a buildup of snow. Many cars draw air from below the radiator; if this intake becomes clogged with snow, you car could overheat, even on a cold winter day.

Washing Tips

Fact: Frequent washing is the single best thing you can do to maintain your vehicleis finish and preserve its showroom shape.

Fact: Careless washing can leave the paint in worse condition than when you started.

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Yes, as simple and easy as a casual driveway carwash seems on a bright Saturday morning, there are subtle pitfalls with which a careless washer could actually harm the finish, leaving scratches or stains that could require extra work to remove. Half the battle is just being aware of the potential problems. Then following through by using the right materials and techniques will make that wash as simple and easy as it should be, while also giving you the spiffy results you want. Hereis a list of some basic car-washing dois and donits that will help you keep your vehicleis finish in prime condition.

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Don't*wait to do a full wash if you see bird droppings, dead bugs, or other obvious contaminants building up on the paint surface. Bird droppings, in particular, have a high acidity that, if left on the paint for any length of time, can eat into the clear coat. If they reach deep enough, these scars can only be removed by sanding and repainting. Rinse this type of debris off the surface as soon as possible, using either water or an instant-detailer type of product.

Do*rinse your vehicle off after a period of rainy weather if your region suffers from acid rain. The acidic chemicals in the rainwater will remain on the surface after the droplets have evaporated, leaving a mark that can permanently stain the paint.

Don't*wash your vehicle when the sheetmetal is hot. The heat causes the soap and water to dry much faster than on a cool surface, which can make the washing process harder and possibly dull the finish. First thing in the morning is a good time to do a wash, or, if the vehicleis been parked in the shade for a while, the metal is likely to be cool enough to do it any time of the day.

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Do*hose off the vehicle before washing. A thorough ipre-rinsei will not only help cool off the sheetmetal, but will also remove loose dirt, leaves, or other debris that could scratch the paint if caught under a sponge or towel. If thereis packed-on mud, use a strong steady stream to break it up and rinse it off entirely.

Don't*use a household detergent to wash your car. This is one of the most common mistakes. Dish soap, laundry soap, and household cleaners are often too harsh to use on a caris paint. They can strip off the protective wax coating and possibly dull the paintis finish. A dedicated carwash formula, on the other hand, is formulated with a milder soap that doesnit affect the protective coating.

Do*wash the vehicle in sections. Wash and rinse one area at a time. This will help prevent the sudsy water from drying on the paint before you can rinse it off.

Don't*use abrasive material on the paint. Whether washing or drying, never use a cloth or other material with a surface that can leave hairline scratches. A large sponge works well, or many professional detailers prefer to use a lambis-wool mitt. The thick nap of the lambis wool allows loose particles to be worked up into the wool rather than remaining on the surface. Whichever you use, apply lots of suds to help keep the paint surface well lubricated.

Do*rinse out the sponge or mitt often. Itis preferable to use separate buckets for suds and rinse water, which keeps dirt from getting mixed into the sudsy wash water. Squeeze the sponge/mitt out in the rinse water and then dip it into the soap bucket for a fresh batch of suds.

Don't*continue to use a sponge or mitt thatis been dropped onto the ground. It could instantly pick up large particles of dirt that, although you may not see them, could scratch the paint.

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Do*use a bug-and-tar remover to finish the job. Mild carwash formulas often arenit tough enough to remove road tar, grease, or similar residues. For this, a strong bug-and-tar remover is necessary. Since this type of grime will usually blacken whatever you use to clean it, itis advisable to use a separate cloth for this job instead of your sponge or mitt.

Don't*use your sponge or mitt to clean the wheels and tires. Because of the brake dust and road debris that collects here, itis often the dirtiest part of the car. Again, use a separate cloth or sponge. If the residue is light, soap and water will usually clean it adequately. For more stubborn grunge, use a special wheel cleaner and brush. Be sure to use a product thatis appropriate for your type of wheels. For instance, a strong acidic product formulated for mag wheels could damage the clear coat used on most modern original-equipment rims. If in doubt, look for one thatis labeled safe for all wheel surfaces.

Do*a final overall rinse. A fine spray is preferable for rinsing. In addition, spraying the water on at a low angle will help form a sheet of water that will better cover the contours of the body, plus will keep splashing to a minimum.

Don't*allow the water droplets to dry on their own. Especially in areas with hard water, the tap water used for rinsing will have a high mineral content. When the water evaporates, it leaves the minerals on the paint, which creates noticeable water spots. Not only are these unsightly, but if left on the finish for a long time, they could eat into the paint and become difficult to remove. Even a iblow dry,i achieved by driving around the block, isnit going to give you satisfactory results.

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Do*use a chamois, terry towel, or synthetic chamois to dry the vehicle. If you choose to use a terry towel, as many professional detailing shops do, have several on hand. A natural chamois works well, but requires more maintenance. It canit be stored wet and becomes stiff when dry, needing to be remoistened before use. An artificial chamois will often absorb more water, is machine washable, and some types can be stored moist without mildewing. One way to speed up the drying process is to use a soft-rubber squeegee or similar type of product to wipe most of the water off of the surface before you follow up with a chamois or towel.